Although many great architects old and new have put their stamp on continental Europe’s golf scene, none more than Tom Simpson. His courses are each master classes in design, form and function. Simpson was very capable on any type of terrain, whether it be linksland, heathland, parkland, and even headlands. He was famously eccentric, at times, even wearing a cape. He wrote very eloquently about the subject of golf design. His seminal book, “The Architectural Side of Golf”, co-written with H.N. Wethered, is a must read and has inspired golf architects since it was written. In this post, we’ll explore some of Tom Simpson most prominent masterpieces across the Old Continent.
There is a unique elegance and an effortless beauty on every course we have seen that Simpson had a hand on. Although his work in the British Isles is undoubtedly revered, some of his best work is spread throughout Europe.
A trip to Belgium, France, or Spain should almost certainly include a round on one or more of these courses.
On a recent trip to Belgium, we had the chance to play a classic example of Simpson’s work in a parkland setting. Royal Antwerp Golf Club shines through, even if the course would strongly benefit from a thoughtful tree thinning program as well as restoring some of Simpson’s most stunning bunkering. There is a fantastic variety of green sizes and shaping that provide constant engagement.
Along with Royal Antwerp, Royal Golf Club des Fagnes, in the lovely town of Spa, is another absolute gem just waiting to be polished. Do not let these sentiments about their current state deter you from visiting and enjoying either of these courses. You would not be remiss to have chosen either, or both of these courses. If you add Royal Golf Club de Belgique, colloquially known as Ravenstein, as well as Sart-Tilman, and you have a great quartet of some of Simpson’s finest work. One great aspect of playing any or all of these fine courses in Belgium, is that there is an absolute wealth of amazing sites, cities, experiences, and restaurants, among other things!
Spain has a select number of remaining Simpson courses, with two courses at Real Puerta de Hierro in Madrid, and Real Club de Campo Malaga on the Costa Del Sol being the most interesting.
Tom Simpson’s most important contribution to the Spanish golfing landscape may be his relationship with Javier Arãna. Arãna designed some of the country’s most interesting designs and has left a legacy of design excellence in Spain. Some of his best courses are among the best in the country. Our personal favorite of his courses is almost certainly El Saler, in Valencia. Set in the dunes along the mediterranean coast, it is quite unique, in that is a true links in a warm season environment.
The Simpson courses spread across France are diverse and some of the best golf courses on the planet. Morfontaine leads the way as the gold standard of classic golf design on the continent. There are two courses to play at Morfontaine, both designed by Tom Simpson. The Grand Parcours is the main, championship, course. We would argue that the Vallière parcours is the very best nine hole course in the world. The Grand Parcours transports you through a magical heathland terrain very reminiscent of the courses you would see in the Surrey sandbelt, southwest of London. The Vallière course is the older of the two courses, and is an experience unto itself. Our day at Morfontaine went as such; we played the Grand Parcours in the morning, after a brief warmup on the modest range. We then enjoyed a perfect lunch in the lovely clubhouse. Afterwards, we played as a six-some! And had as much fun as you could want, on the Vallière. The greens are among the most rambunctious you will find anywhere in the world. All in all, for us, this is among the great experiences that exist in the golfing world.
Along with Morfontaine, surrounding Paris, there exists other great Simpson courses with Fontainebleau and Chantilly. Chantilly has been changed from the original Simpson routing, unfortunately due to the 2nd World War. It still has the same charm that Simpson left though.
Fontainebleau has an excellent 18 hole Simpson course, that is currently undergoing a restoration, which should lead to it rising in the rankings of best courses on the continent, and rightfully so, as it is already one of the best in all of France. It is a pure, fantastic example of the man’s work.
Beyond these courses around Paris, there are a couple other courses worth mentioning. Golf de Chiberta, in the southwest of France is an exceptional links course, near the historic town of Biarritz. Although this is the only Simpson course in the area, there are several other courses designed by the likes of Morrison, Von Hagge, Trent Jones, Bill Coore, Doak, and Colt. This beautiful region is very much worthy of a trip that could include a visit to some wineries, sun kissed beaches, and beautiful châteaux.
Further to the north lies Golf d’Hardelot, which has recently been brought back to its former glory through a well-executed restoration by Dutch architect Frank Pont, who will be a part of the restoration of Fontainebleau. Hardelot is a really enjoyable walk on beautiful sandy terrain, through a pine forest. Hardelot is a great example of tree management we wish more clubs in Europe would follow. It has led to much better turf conditions, and natural open vistas throughout the property. Not unlike Chiberta, Hardelot has neighboring courses that are also worth a visit. Le Touquet is a fantastic Colt design, Wimereux, Belle Dune are also fun to play, all in a sandy seaside setting.
In closing, there are many very accessible continental European courses designed by Tom Simpson. We have all heard of Ballybunion, County Louth, Rye, and Cruden Bay, all courses that Simpson had a hand in designing, but we encourage everyone to seek out these courses, briefly highlighted here. They are all excellent days on the course and wonderfully varied. If you couple these rounds with some visits to some amazing cathedrals, towns, and all around unique experiences, you will be entranced and looking to see more, like we are.
